Archive for the ‘Tree & Shrub Care’ Category

What’s that giant spider web in my tree?

Friday, April 13th, 2012

It’s actually the “silken tent” of the Eastern Tent Caterpillar, which annually makes an appearance in certain trees in Oklahoma during mid-Spring.  With the warm spring, this annual event is a few weeks ahead of schedule, as everything else in Tulsa lawns and landscapes have been in 2012.  The insects produce their webbing in the crotch of a branch in certain trees, such as hawthorn, crabapple, cherry, plum, and a few other trees.  The silken tent serves as protection for the caterpillars when they are not out foraging on the tree leaves.  The caterpillars usually are not found in such numbers that they defoliate or harm an entire tree.  They are not usually detrimental to a tree’s health, however control may be desired to prevent the ragged look these insects will produce by their feeding, along with the unsightly webs.

The Eastern Tent Caterpillar is showing up in certain Tulsa trees.

The easiest and cheapest control is simply to take a stick and destroy the web found in the branches, along with the insects, assuming you can reach it.  Insecticides can be applied, but it’s very difficult to penetrate the web.  We usually don’t recommend spraying, since by the time you see the webs, any damage may have been done.  At this point, the larvae are close to going into the pupae stage, and hatch into harmless moths.   So just take a stick and wack them out of the tree and you should be fine.  You may even try a high pressure stream of water from your hose to break up the web and knock the caterpillars out of their web.  If there are just a few webs found in your trees, I would not be that concerned about it, since they will probably not significantly damage the tree.  Just think of it as helping to feed the local neighborhood birds.

We do expect a bad year for insects and their problems this year, due to the very mild winter.  So while the Eastern Tent Caterpillar is not one to get real excited about, their are other insects that will harm your ornamentals.  For information on how to care for trees and shrubs in the landscape, visit our website.

OK…Spring Really is Here!

Thursday, April 5th, 2012

I’ve been a little worried with the unseasonably warm, and even hot weather we’ve had here in Tulsa this winter and spring.  My concern was a late freeze blowing through here in early April and wacking the bermudagrass, but I think we are in the clear on that.  I see nothing indicating a cold snap anytime soon, so…you can go ahead and scalp your bermudagrass, mow it, whatever you want to do now!   If you’ve not serviced your mower and sharpened the blade, now is a good time for that.  A good, sharp mower blade is so important for the health of your turf, and your turf will look much nicer after mowing.

Even though it’s early April, it looks and feels like May.  Things are greening up early, along with bugs coming out early.  I saw June Bugs this week, and we are two months away from June.  Nobody told the bugs, along with Aphids, Bagworms, Lacebugs, and all the other shrub-eating critters in our landscape.  So be prepared to move up your schedule in treating for these pests.  We offer complete plant health care services at LawnAmerica, so contact us with any questions or if you are in need of service.

One good thing about the warm weather is that we expect to see fewer problems with Spring Dead Spot this year.  A harsh winter can lead to increased severity of this troublesome disease.  So we are anxious to see if our warm winter has helped us out in decreasing the number and severity of the dead spots.

April is National Lawncare Month

April is National Lawncare Month, so give your lawn some extra love this month.  Lawns do so much for our urban environment in Tulsa, not only from an aethetic point of view, but also environmentally.  A healthy lawn produces oxygen, while taking out carbon dioxide from the air.  A thick lawn helps reduce noise and prevents soil erosion.  For all the benefits of a healthy lawn, check out our website here.   We’re proud of what we do at LawnAmerica in caring for lawns in Tulsa and Northeast Oklahoma.   And nobody loves lawns more that we do!

Pruning Landscape Shrubs

Wednesday, February 22nd, 2012

Use clean, sharp pruning shears when performing late winter pruning.

Oklahoma Gardeners are eager to get out and do something in the lawn and landscape this time of year. One chore that can be taken care of now is pruning certain shrubs. Often, gardeners approach pruning with trepidation, but it is not as difficult as it may seem. Remember, not all shrubs need to be pruned, and certain shrubs, which will be identified later in this article, should not be pruned this time of year.

Shrubs are pruned to maintain or reduce size, rejuvenate growth, or to remove diseased, dead or damaged branches. Deciduous shrubs are those that lose leaves each winter. Evergreen shrubs maintain foliage all year and include yews and junipers.

Deciduous shrubs are placed into three groups:

  • Those that flower in the spring on wood produced last year.
  • Those that flower later in the year on current season’s growth.
  • Those that may produce flowers, but those flowers are of little ornamental value.

Shrubs that flower in the spring should not be pruned until immediately after flowering. Though pruning earlier will not harm the health of the plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia, lilac, and Azaleas.  Shrubs that bloom on current season’s growth or that do not produce ornamental flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples include Rose-of-Sharon, pyracantha, and  spirea.

Pruning during the spring allows wounds to heal quickly without threat from insects or disease. There is no need to treat pruning cuts with paints or sealers. In fact, some of these products may retard healing.

There are three basic methods used in pruning shrubs: thinning, heading back, and rejuvenating. Thinning is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense. It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs by either cutting them back to a larger branch or cutting them back to just above an outward- facing bud. On multi-stemmed shrubs, the oldest canes may be completely removed.

Heading back is done by removing the end of a branch by cutting it back to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height because this results in a “witches-broom” effect. Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and may be used on multi-stem shrubs that have become too large, with too many old branches to
justify saving the younger canes. All stems are cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs.

With pruning shrubs, make sure to use clean, sharp pruning shears in order to make a clean cut.

For more information on caring for your landsacpe with Lawnamerica Tree & Shrub services, contact us now.

To Prune or Not to Prune

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

The abnormally warm winter weather has brought some homeowners and landscapers out of the home and into the landscape looking for stuff to do.  This time last year, we were all hunkered down trying to keep warm and waiting for the snow to melt. Not so in 2012.

Crepe Myrtle stubs

Pruning or whacking off Crepe Myrtles at the same place every year causes this.

Crepe Myrtles are a fairly common, and wonderful shrub in Oklahoma. Although they are more adapted to southern climates in the south, they do quite well in Tulsa. They were put to the test last winter, and even though some were slow to come out in spring, most seemed to survive just fine. I see many people who prune back Crepe Myrtles every winter, oftentimes down to the trunk, at the same place every year. We call this “crepe murder”, since it really takes what could naturally be a tall, beautiful tree and makes it into a short and whispy bush. I think in alot of cases, it’s landscape companies wanting to get their crews out early looking for stuff to do and generate some income.  In most cases, it’s just not needed. Yes, if a Crepe Myrtle was planted next to a window, under a power line, in a small space, etc., it may need to be pruned back. But in most cases, it can be just left alone and allowed to grow more like a tree. (more…)

Just in Time!

Friday, August 12th, 2011

As Will Rogers once said, “If you don’t like the weather in Oklahoma, just stick around—it will change.” Last week it seemed there was no end in sight to the awful hot and dry weather. All of a sudden, God turns on the faucet, and many areas in Northeast Oklahoma and Tulsa have received over 4″ of much-needed rainfall over several days. Along with cooler temperatures, one can see already the impact on our lawns and landscapes, along with our attitudes!

Rainfall

Bring on the Rain!

I was getting really concerned about many of our lawns last week. I thought it could be mid-September before seeing any significant rain and cooler temperatures. But I was thankfully wrong, and I think we’ll be getting back to normal soon. We are not officially out of the drought though, and there are still consequences of being in the hottest month ever for any state in any month. YES—We’re #1!!  But with even more rain in the forecast, before the heat returns next week, we are in much better shape now.

For every person who was not watering well this summer or watering at all, there have been just as many who have been over-watering. Turn off your system for now and give it a break! Let Mother Nature do her thing.  Don’t water during the middle of the day, as that is such a waste. If it does heat up and the rainfall stops, then proceed to water normally again for summer, which generally is about 2-3 times per week, early in the morning. (more…)

LawnAmerica Battling the Tulsa Drought with Mobile Irrigation

Friday, July 22nd, 2011

We are in the midst of what could turn out to be the hottest and driest summer on record in the Tulsa area. I know that it’s as bad as I’ve seen it in the 25 years I’ve been doing lawncare in Tulsa. Every day, the lawns are turning browner, people (especially our outdoor workers) are getting more tired and frustrated, and water is getting more scarce.

Help! I need water!

We just sent out a special letter and newsletter to our customers with information on proper watering and other things a homeowner can do to help their lawn and landscape survive this summer. Bermuda grass lawns should be fine. With little or no water, they will shut down and go dormant, but should spring back to life when we get rain or if they are irrigated very well. That is—they should spring back to life. The turf will need fertilization before fall dormancy hits, and that is a concern for us. It’s not wise to just quit fertilizing and put the turf under even more stress on top of the drought.  LawnAmerica is using mainly an organic fertilizer now, with nutrients that will slowly be released as we get into a more normal weather pattern with some moisture.  (more…)

Fall Is the Time for Planting

Thursday, November 19th, 2009
Plant shrubs now for a better start next spring.

Plant shrubs now for a better start next spring.

With a great fall winding down, the weather is becoming cooler, and gardeners are slowly migrating back indoors for winter.  But don’t put away your gloves and tools quite yet, as now is a perfect time to add a new tree or a grouping of shrubs to the landscape. Or perhaps you have an area in the landscape that needs ‘remodeling’ or rejuvenating. Or as in my case, maybe the family dog got bored and literally pulled out of the ground a 7’ new Redbud tree I had planted in the backyard last spring.  Anyone want a friendly 3-year old Golden Retriever?

The fall may be the best season to plant, surpassing even the spring.  Many people prefer Spring for planting, but the fall months of September through December have distinct advantages. Fall planting follows the heat of summer, before a cool winter season, and trees and shrubs planted in the fall use this to good advantage. Plant roots grow anytime the soil temperature is 40 degrees or higher, which may occur all winter in Oklahoma. During the winter months, the root systems of the fall-planted specimens develop and become established. When spring arrives, this expanded root system can support and take advantage of the full surge of spring growth.

Fall is the optimum time to plant balled and burlapped trees and shrubs. Balled and burlapped plants have ample time to recover from transplanting and proliferate roots before spring growth begins. Remember, however, all bare root plants, including roses and pecan and fruit trees, should be planted in late winter when they are completely dormant.

Plan ahead before just throwing something into the ground.  ‘Plan before you plant’ is always a good rule of thumb. Whether you are planting a single plant or an entire landscape, plan first, then plant. Good planning is a worthwhile investment of time that will pay off in greater enjoyment of attractive and useful home grounds, and in increasing the value of your home. It’s much easier to move plants on paper then to dig them after planting in the wrong place. A plan saves many planting mistakes.

Every plant in the landscape should serve a purpose. Ask yourself if you want a plant for screening, for privacy, or for shade. How large will it be five years from now? Plants, like people, grow up. Remember, that a small one-gallon-size plant will look entirely different after a few years of growth in your landscape.  This is a common mistake homeowners make, by planting shrubs or trees too closely together, not realizing that they do grow up—just like your kids!

Plant properly for success. Here are a few guidelines on getting the job done right:

  • Dig a hole large enough in diameter so that the root system has at least six inches of clearance on all sides. The root ball should rest on a solid soil foundation, so don’t dig the hole much deeper than the ball.
  • Plant the tree or shrub slightly above the level of the surrounding soil, to allow for settling and increased soil drainage.
  • Carefully place the tree or shrub in the hole. Handle the plant by the root ball, not by the trunk. A broken ball of earth can mean a dead plant. Always remove any container before you plant.
  • Backfill the hole, using only the native soil removed from the hole; do not use soil amendments when planting large shrubs and trees. Fill the hole, and firm the soil around the plant. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and to eliminate any air pockets.
  • Do not fertilize your tree or shrub after planting. Wait until early in the spring to do this, and even then, go lightly. Heavy applications of fertilizer may burn and injure the root system, and could possibly kill the plant.
  • Watering has been and remains paramount in transplanting. At the time of transplanting, soak the root ball and surrounding soil. A thorough watering every 7 to 10 days dramatically increases the success ratio. More frequent watering may encourage root rot. Remember more trees and shrubs fail from over watering then from under watering.
  • Before calling it a day, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch around the base of newly planted trees and shrubs. This helps to keep down weeds and conserve soil moisture. Use pine bark, compost, grass clippings, or leaves.

    After raking leaves this fall, go plant a tree!

    After raking leaves this fall, go plant a tree!

So don’t settle down into the couch watching football too soon this season yet Dad!  Before Winter sets in, why not get out in the landscape and give it a good “going over” so that it will be ready to take off next Spring.   It’s a great time to plant a tree, shrubs, bulbs, and other landscape additions that will come out strong next spring.

Webworms

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

fall web worm nestsCertain species of trees are becoming covered with webs of Fall Webworms recently.  Every few years, we’ll have infestations of these pests.  It’s been several years since we’ve had a significant invasion, so we are due for one.  These are larvae of the Fall Webworm moth, which feed on the outer leaves of trees such as pecan, hickory, persimmon, river birch, sweetgum, redbud, and a few others.  We will probably see several generations this year, as they have come in early.  The larvae will pupate, with moths emerging soon, laying eggs and starting the cycle again.

Although unsightly, webworms do not significantly damage trees.  We can spray an insecticide on trees up to about 40’ high, which will help to lessen the further spread of the worms.  If it was my tree, I would not worry about spraying however.  The webs and damaged branches can be pruned out if they can be reached.  Sprays will not cause the webs to disappear, and the damage has already been done.  Sprays will only help to prevent further spread of the worms, and only for a few weeks.   Wind and rain will eventually cause the webs to dissipate in most trees.

Even if invasions later this summer strip the tree of most of it’s leaves, which is unlikely, the tree is not going to die.  It won’t be pretty, but it will be fine.  So it’s your call as to whether to spray or not.  Our minimum charge is $45, with an additional $5 per tree to spray.

Check out our optional services page!